Turquoise rivers, forested ridgelines and the fairy-tale village of Arang Kel in Pakistan's most scenic AJK valley.
Azad Kashmir is the Pakistan that most Pakistanis have on their bucket list but have not yet managed to reach. Neelum Valley in particular — a long, narrow river valley running along the Line of Control — packs more variety into a single road than almost anywhere else in the country. The Neelum River runs turquoise below while the hillsides above cycle between dense forest, alpine meadow and bare rock as you climb higher.
This tour takes you from Muzaffarabad up the Neelum Valley road, stopping at the most beautiful spots along the way — Sharda, Keran, Kel and, if your schedule allows, the high meadow of Arang Kel reached by a chairlift and a short hike. The villages are friendly, the food is simple and good, and the river is never far from view.
A turquoise mountain river that runs the full length of the valley, best seen from the suspension bridges above.
A fairy-tale village perched on a ridge above Kel, reached by Pakistan's only operating chairlift.
An ancient university town by the river with ruins dating back over a thousand years, set in spectacular scenery.
A picture-postcard riverside village where wooden houses cling to steep hillsides above the Neelum River.
A high-altitude alpine lake above Dowarian, accessible by jeep and a short hike with extraordinary views.
The lively capital of AJK where the trip starts — worth an evening stroll along the river promenade.
A short drive east from Lahore takes us across the Kohala Bridge into Azad Kashmir. Muzaffarabad is the busy, friendly capital of AJK — we arrive by afternoon, check in, and take an evening walk along the Jhelum and Neelum rivers where they meet in the centre of the city.
We enter the Neelum Valley and follow the river upstream through a succession of ever-more-beautiful villages. The road clings to the hillside above the turquoise river, passing through Noseri, Kutton and Nauseri before we reach Keran — one of the most picturesque villages in all of Kashmir.
We continue up the valley to Sharda, where ancient ruins of a Sanskrit university overlook the river. The scenery grows more dramatic as we push higher, arriving in Kel by afternoon — the last major settlement before the road becomes a track.
The morning is dedicated to Arang Kel: a chairlift over the forested hillside and a short walk to the village that sits on a natural terrace with views straight down the valley. It is the kind of place that appears in travel photography but feels better in person. Afternoon back in Kel and early night.
We drive back down the Neelum Valley, stopping wherever the light or the view demands it, before returning through Muzaffarabad and back to Lahore by early evening.